No heat

When stepping through diagnostic test mode, press START/PAUSE once and wait for the step to fully execute before pressing again. Pressing rapidly through multiple steps without waiting can damage the main board. Step 4 in particular (pump test) requires the pump to actually energize and the AD value to register — rapid pressing skips this and can harm the pump relay circuit.

The dual-element heater can partially fail — one element can be open while the other remains functional. The unit will still produce some heat but drying performance will be poor. Always measure all three resistance points: terminal 1(COM) to 2 = 10Ω, terminal 1(COM) to 3 = 10Ω, and terminal 2 to 3 = 20Ω. If only terminals 2 to 3 measure 20Ω but one of the single-element readings is open, you have a single-element failure. Replacing only one failed element is acceptable, but inspect the companion element for discoloration or damage.

When sensor-dry cycles consistently over-dry or under-dry clothes, inspect the moisture sensor electrode bars inside the drum near the lint filter before replacing any electronics. Fabric softener sheet residue and hard water mineral deposits coat the bars and reduce conductivity. Clean with fine steel wool or rubbing alcohol. This is a very common and free fix that avoids unnecessary PCB replacement.

When replacing the main PCB or reassembling after heater service, verify that the tab relay connector housings match the relay body color before powering on. Black housing goes to black relay (Heater 1 / Tap Relay 1), white housing goes to white relay (Heater 2 / Tap Relay 2). Crossing the black and white housings with crossed internal wires will kill power to the PCB. Crossing only the housings (not internal wires) will swap Heater 1 and Heater 2 functions but keep the unit powered — yet this will still cause incorrect temperature behavior and potential damage.