No heat on your LG DLEX3570V
When a dryer tumbles but produces no heat, the problem is almost always in one of two systems: the heating circuit itself, or the safety circuit that shuts heat off when airflow is restricted. Understanding which system has failed is the fastest path to a fix. If the heating element or gas igniter has physically failed, the dryer simply can't produce heat — this is a component replacement. But if a thermal fuse or hi-limit thermostat has tripped, the heating circuit is intact — a safety device interrupted it because something else (usually a clogged exhaust vent) caused the dryer to overheat. Fixing the fuse without fixing the airflow problem means the fuse will blow again. This page covers both failure modes, the parts most commonly needed, and how to tell which system is the actual culprit.
- Disconnect power before testing: Electric dryers operate on 240V circuits. Always unplug the dryer or turn off both circuit breakers before accessing any internal components.
- Gas leak awareness: If you smell gas at any point, stop immediately. Do not operate switches or create sparks. Leave the area and call your gas utility.
- Hot surfaces after operation: The heating element housing, exhaust duct, and surrounding components remain hot for several minutes after the dryer stops. Allow cooling time before touching.
- Check both breakers: Electric dryers use two breakers. If one trips, the drum may spin but the heating element won't energize. Check both breakers even if the dryer appears to run.
- Lint is a fire hazard: Accumulated lint in the exhaust duct is a leading cause of dryer fires. Clean the full vent path from the dryer to the exterior wall annually.
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Parts
4Part numbers confirmed across multiple retailers for DLEX3570V
Repair tips for this model
From OEM service manual analysis for the DLEX3570V
From the service manual
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5 technician insights for this model
Diagnostic Mode Pacing
When stepping through diagnostic test mode, press START/PAUSE once and wait for the step to fully execute before pressing again. Pressing rapidly through multiple steps without waiting can damage the main board. Step 4 in particular (pump test) requires the pump to actually energize and the AD value to register — rapid pressing skips this and can harm the pump relay circuit.
Heater Resistance Dual-Element Check
The dual-element heater can partially fail — one element can be open while the other remains functional. The unit will still produce some heat but drying performance will be poor. Always measure all three resistance points: terminal 1(COM) to 2 = 10Ω, terminal 1(COM) to 3 = 10Ω, and terminal 2 to 3 = 20Ω. If only terminals 2 to 3 measure 20Ω but one of the single-element readings is open, you have a single-element failure. Replacing only one failed element is acceptable, but inspect the companion element for discoloration or damage.
Moisture Sensor Contamination
When sensor-dry cycles consistently over-dry or under-dry clothes, inspect the moisture sensor electrode bars inside the drum near the lint filter before replacing any electronics. Fabric softener sheet residue and hard water mineral deposits coat the bars and reduce conductivity. Clean with fine steel wool or rubbing alcohol. This is a very common and free fix that avoids unnecessary PCB replacement.
Tab Relay Color Matching
When replacing the main PCB or reassembling after heater service, verify that the tab relay connector housings match the relay body color before powering on. Black housing goes to black relay (Heater 1 / Tap Relay 1), white housing goes to white relay (Heater 2 / Tap Relay 2). Crossing the black and white housings with crossed internal wires will kill power to the PCB. Crossing only the housings (not internal wires) will swap Heater 1 and Heater 2 functions but keep the unit powered — yet this will still cause incorrect temperature behavior and potential damage.
Seeing an error code on your display? Look up your error code → for more specific diagnostic information.