Won't start

If the dryer runs for a few minutes then stops, in addition to low voltage, check the blower impeller for blockage. Foreign material trapped in the blower housing can restrict airflow, cause rapid overheating, and trigger the safety thermostat to shut down the dryer. Also check the motor actuator.

When clothes are still damp after a cycle, check in this order: 1) Lint filter clean? 2) Exhaust vent restricted? 3) Outside hood damper door stuck? 4) Exhaust too long or too many elbows? 5) Flex ductwork installed (less efficient)? 6) Adequate intake air available? 7) Belt slipping? 8) Blower impeller blocked? 9) Customer overloading? 10) Clothes too wet from washer (insufficient spin-out)? The heating element resistance check (1-3 and 3-5 heater pins: 93Ω and 35Ω respectively) is shown in the 'not dried' diagnostic flowchart.

The manual provides two slightly different sets of motor winding resistance values: the centrifugal switch section states 3.05Ω (pin 3-4) and 3.35Ω (pin 4-5), while the trouble diagnosis section states 2.88Ω (pin 3-4) and 3.5Ω (pin 4-5). Both are valid — the difference is likely due to different measurement points (with or without centrifugal switch in circuit). Use the ±5% tolerance as a guide.

Samsung recommends ring terminals over spade terminals for power cord connections to the terminal block. Spade terminals can work loose over time, causing arcing, overheating, and power delivery problems. Using ring terminals ensures a more reliable and safer connection. This is the first thing shown in the 'power does not work' diagnostic flowchart.