Won't start

If the dryer runs for a few minutes then stops, in addition to low voltage, check the blower impeller for blockage. Foreign material trapped in the blower housing can restrict airflow, cause rapid overheating, and trigger the safety thermostat to shut down the dryer. Also check the motor actuator. This is trouble diagnosis item #3 and is often overlooked.

During ignition the gas dryer draws 6 amps, and with the burner ON it draws 4.5 amps. If the dryer is drawing amperages above these values, the problem is likely in the house wiring, fuse box, or circuit breaker — not in the dryer. Also, the igniter harness may be loose and shorted to base, or wiring may be incorrect or shorted to ground. Check current draw before replacing dryer components.

When diagnosing gas ignition problems, there are exactly three symptom categories that cover all failure modes: (1) Igniter does not glow — check flame sensor, igniter, booster coil, wiring, motor switch; (2) Igniter glows but no gas ignition — check secondary coil, holding coil, wire harness, flame sensor stuck closed; (3) Gas ignites but flame goes out — check radiant sensor contacts, gas valve coil weakness, hi-limit, venting, drum seals. Always start by identifying which category applies.

The moisture sensor bars can be tested by disconnecting the harness and measuring between Pink wire Pin 4 and Orange wire Pin 5. Without laundry touching the bars, resistance should be ∞Ω. With wet clothes on the bars, resistance should be approximately 190Ω ±10%. The cycling thermistor is tested separately at Blue wire Pin 3 to Red wire Pin 6, reading approximately 10KΩ at 25°C. Using wire colors to identify the correct pins prevents testing the wrong circuit.