No heat

If the dryer runs for a few minutes then stops, check the blower impeller for blockage in addition to low voltage. Foreign material trapped in the blower housing restricts airflow, causes rapid overheating, and triggers the safety thermostat to shut down the dryer. Also check the motor actuator. Low voltage is the other common cause of this symptom.

This dryer uses a 5300W heating element. When testing, check BOTH elements separately: PIN 2-3 should read 13Ω and PIN 1-2 should read 34Ω. One element can fail while the other works, resulting in reduced heating rather than no heating. The 'clothes not dried' flowchart mentions 'about 10Ω' for the heater coil, which may be a simplified full-circuit check.

Gas model dryers have specific amp draw values that can help diagnose problems: 6 amps during ignition, 4.5 amps with the burner on. If the dryer is drawing amperages above these levels, the house wiring, fuse box, or circuit breaker is suspected to be at fault — not the dryer itself. This is a useful field test before tearing into the dryer.

Gas ignition problems fall into exactly three categories: (1) Igniter does not glow — check flame sensor, igniter, booster coil, wiring, motor switch, and PCB power output. (2) Igniter glows but gas doesn't ignite — check secondary coil, holding coil, wire harness, and stuck flame sensor. (3) Gas ignites but flame goes out — check radiant sensor contacts, weak gas valve coil, weak hi-limit, poor venting, and drum seals. Each pattern points to different components, so correctly identifying the symptom is critical.