Igniter clicking constantly
A gas cooktop igniter that clicks continuously isn't trying to light a burner — it's a stuck firing state where the spark module is producing sparks it shouldn't. The normal spark sequence runs only when you rotate a knob to the 'Light' position; the spark stops as soon as the gas ignites (usually within a few seconds). Continuous clicking outside of that sequence means the spark module thinks it needs to light a burner that isn't actually calling for ignition. The most common cause is moisture — after cleaning the cooktop, water trapped in the igniter electrode area creates a conductive bridge that looks like an ignition request to the module. Second most common is food debris between the electrode and the burner cap, creating a similar short-to-ground condition. Third is a warped burner cap that changes the spark gap geometry. Dry the electrodes, clean the burner area, and reseat the caps — this fixes the vast majority of constant-clicking complaints.
Safety
Critical- Stop if you smell gas during clicking: A spark module that clicks continuously while gas is also flowing (if a knob is on) creates an ignition hazard. If you smell gas at any point, turn all knobs fully off, leave the area, ventilate, and call your gas utility. Don't assume the clicking will eventually ignite — gas may be accumulating without ignition.
- Kill power before accessing the spark module: Spark modules run on 120V and generate high-voltage pulses to the igniter electrodes. Unplug the cooktop or kill the breaker before opening the cooktop for module replacement. The high-voltage output can deliver a significant shock even after the module is disconnected from mains.
- Constant clicking indicates a real fault: Continuous clicking isn't just annoying — it indicates the spark module is firing when it shouldn't. The module is consuming electricity unnecessarily and its spark capacitors and electrodes are wearing faster than normal. Address the cause promptly rather than tolerating the sound; unresolved faults can escalate to spark module failure.
How to approach this
Turn off all burner knobs first to confirm no burner is actively requesting ignition. If clicking continues with all knobs off, a switch is stuck or a short-to-ground condition is fooling the module. Remove all burner caps and grates. Wipe each igniter electrode (the small ceramic spike near each burner) dry with a clean cloth — moisture from recent cleaning is the most common cause. Also wipe the entire burner base area dry. Inspect the burner cap for warping; a misshapen cap can sit off-center and change the spark gap. If the cap is visibly dented or deformed, replace it. Check for food debris in the burner area — especially around the ignition electrode — and clean thoroughly. Reassemble and test. If clicking continues after the cooktop is fully dry and clean, isolate which burner is triggering the module. Turn each knob briefly through 'Light' and 'Off.' If clicking persists when one specific knob is in the off position, that switch is stuck closed. If clicking happens with all knobs off regardless of position, the spark module itself has failed.
Common causes
Ordered by how frequently each component is involved, based on OEM manual analysis.
Moisture bridging the igniter electrode
Most commonWater trapped in the igniter electrode area after cleaning the cooktop creates an electrical path to ground that the spark module interprets as a burner calling for ignition. The module fires continuously trying to light a non-existent call. Drying the electrode and surrounding area with a clean cloth usually resolves this within minutes. Prevent by wiping the cooktop dry after cleaning and allowing any residual moisture to evaporate before turning knobs.
Food debris around the igniter
CommonFood particles, spilled liquid residue, or grease buildup between the igniter electrode and the burner cap can create a low-resistance path that fools the spark module into continuous firing. The symptom is similar to moisture bridging — clicking without call. Clean the burner area thoroughly, paying attention to the small gap between electrode and cap. Soft brushes and isopropyl alcohol help dissolve stubborn residue.
Warped or misaligned burner cap
CommonThe burner cap's distance from the igniter electrode sets the spark gap. A warped cap (from being dropped during cleaning, impact, or manufacturing defect) sits at the wrong height, changing the gap enough to cause erratic firing — including continuous sparking. Inspect caps visually for dents or deformation. A cap that rocks on the burner base is misaligned. Replacement caps are typically $15-30 each.
Failed spark module
Less commonThe spark module itself can fail in a continuous-firing state. Unlike the sensor-side causes, this is a true component failure: the module's internal control circuit has stuck in 'fire' mode. Diagnose by elimination — if the cooktop is clean, dry, and caps are aligned, and clicking continues, the module needs replacement. Spark modules run $50-150 depending on brand and are accessed by opening the cooktop.
Burner switch stuck in 'Light' position
Less commonOccasionally, a burner control switch fails in the 'Light' position even when the knob reads 'Off.' This keeps a continuous ignition call active. Test by turning each knob through its full range and listening for the click trigger. A switch that triggers clicking in the off position confirms the fault. Replacement switches run $20-40.
Parts commonly needed
No verified parts are currently associated with this symptom for the NE58F9710WS.
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About this content. Common causes and FAQs are generated from OEM manual analysis and verified parts data. This is general guidance - your specific model may have different components or access points. Always verify with your model's documentation before ordering parts.